![]() ![]() ![]() Where to sit: For dinner, the main dining room is convivial and loud. The other half could be a dish or two from the Market section (if the sugar snap peas with horseradish are on the menu, they’re a must-order) or, if you’re feeling peckish, one of the smaller format proteins like the fried skate, black cod, or pork belly.īoiled chicken over rice Wonho Frank Lee Dining for Two Ideally, though, it’s a brief overture to other dishes. For a night alone, a topping like the spicy lamb or Benton’s ham might make up half of your meal. The bing is required eating for first visits - soft, the scent just this side of sweet, like a savory hotteok (a Korean sweet pancake that’s griddled street-side). Outgoing front-of-house staff are more than happy to chat you up or let you pay attention to your phone, whichever works. Where to sit: If available, take a stool at the chef’s counter, which seems practically designed for solo dining. Many of the dishes carry over to the restaurant’s weekend lunch, though there are specific entrees on that menu that will not be discussed here. Note: this guide is for dinner at Majordomo. The noodles and rice, fish, and meat can vary in size from being individual portions to being shareable by four or more. Majordomo’s menu is broken down into Bing (the house flatbread with a variety of toppings), Raw & Appetizers, Market (a section dedicated to the season’s produce), Noodles & Rice, Fish, Meat and a separate section for special seasonal proteins. So order a drink (and maybe a bottle of wine) and, using the number of people dining as a guideline, here’s a guide of how to order at Majordomo. The album demands repeat listens, across multiple seasons, coupled with a breadth of dining experience to fully grasp the role each dish might play in an ideal meal. Every dish at Majordomo feels like a Changian statement while simultaneously asking “wouldn’t it be amazing if we could do (something unthinkable) to (insert well-known dish here)?” And for the most part - those truffles be damned - the answer is “yes.”Īll of this is to say that Majordomo is a full-length album in an age of culinary Soundcloud snippets and one-hit-wonders. The food is densely referential in this regard, from the boiled chicken’s dual-sauce application visually recalling the snapper at Gabriela Cámara’s Contramar, the functional appropriation of Instagram-friendly raclette to Korean braised short ribs (a riff on Sun Nong Dan’s famous galbijjim), to the P&L-driven cynicism of showering black truffles on an otherwise perfectly simple macaroni-and-chickpea dish reminiscent of Joshua Pinsky’s sublime bucatini at Momofuku Nishi. From a brief stint in finance, to classically trained chef, to culinary enfant terrible, to the sometimes reluctant face of an international restaurant empire, Chang’s myriad experiences inform the menu at the industrial Chinatown space. Majordomo plays like an album that you might not completely “get” on the first listenįor better or for worse, Majordomo feels like a reflective apotheosis from Chang. With tentpole proteins priced from $25 all the way up to $190 and no clear demarcations of how many diners these dishes are intended to comfortably feed, knowing when to visit and what to experience on a first or subsequent visit is daunting. Service staff, while helpful, can only inform an experience so much in a limited time. Once diners have secured one of those reservations and peruse the menu at Majordomo, one thing becomes clear: There is little in the way of guidance or structure. The vision challenges diners - and nowhere is that challenge more welcome than in the diverse population of Los Angeles, where the restaurant remains one of the toughest reservations in the city. Chang’s commitment to recreating flavors, scents, and textures from a vast array of cultural influences with East-Asian brushstrokes is difficult to categorize, but pan out and a discernible portrait emerges: An industrial oasis, outfitted neatly with sleek wood, matted silverware, and Korean earthenware jars against a backdrop of James Jean and David Choe murals. Helmed by executive chef Jude Parra-Sickels and general manager Christine Larroucau, Majordomo isn’t so much a fusion restaurant as it is a cubist vision of one. The restaurant is no small accomplishment in that regard. Momofuku chef David Chang’s first foray into the Los Angeles dining scene in January 2018 was initially viewed as one in a wave of “Carpetbaggers” by late LA Times food critic Jonathan Gold, but the far Chinatown haunt continues to weave itself inextricably into the city’s dining tapestry. Anyone who follows LA restaurants knows enough about Majordomo by now.
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